The Four Chimneys Inn’s new restaurant in Bennington combines time-honored tradition with innovative gastronomic artistry
STORY BY BENJAMIN LERNER
PHOTOGRAPHY CRAIG LIGHT
Standing on the grounds of a gorgeous, historic estate in Old Bennington, Vermont, the Four Chimneys Inn is a beacon of timeless elegance. Originally constructed in the late 1700s, this celebrated Southern Vermont institution has undergone multiple renovations and ownership changes, with each chapter adding to its celebrated lore.
Today, with new husband-and-wife owners Marc Baetens and Kate Goble at the helm, The Four Chimneys Inn is continuing to build on its sterling legacy. Baetens and Goble have thoughtfully revitalized The Four Chimneys culinary program while preserving the elevated ambience of its recently-renovated guestrooms, creating a fabulous experience for both visiting diners and overnight guests. The journey that led Baetens and Goble to Southern Vermont began with a shared dream of owning a business that offered world-class hospitality and service. After operating a farmstead bed-and-breakfast in Baetens’ native Belgium for several years, their plans were altered by the onset of the COVID pandemic. “We didn’t know what we were going to do next,” says Baetens, “but we knew that we wanted to find the perfect place to open a great restaurant.”
Together, upon determining that they wanted to move to the U.S., Baetens and Goble researched properties across the country. In 2021, Goble traveled to Vermont, where she discovered the charming Four Chimneys Inn. After weighing their options, they acquired the property in March 2022. They then fully remodeled the kitchen, purchased state-of-the-art cooking equipment, and enlisted the services of two talented chefs: Executive Chef Daniel Jackson and Sous Chef Cristina Brogan. They opened to the public in Summer 2023, ushering in a promising new era for the future of Bennington’s culinary community.
Together, Chef Jackson and Chef Brogan have brought a fusion of classical French and Southwestern culinary techniques to the dining table at the Four Chimneys. Chef Jackson was raised in nearby Saratoga Springs, where he got his start working in the kitchens of local restaurants during his high school years. After graduating from The Culinary Institute of America, he worked at restaurants in South Carolina, Nantucket, and St. Maarten, and helped to revamp the Culinary Program at The Reluctant Panther in Manchester, Vermont, in 2007. After working as a private chef for a family in Florida for 15 years, he moved back to Vermont in 2023 and began working at The Four Chimneys Inn a year later.
The foundation of Jackson’s culinary skillset lies in classical French cuisine, which is evident in the entrée and appetizer selections on The Four Chimneys’ seasonally-rotating menu, such as the filet au poivre and escargot in puff pastry. Sous Chef Cristina Brogan brought a different flavor palette and style to the table, creating dishes with Central and South American flavors, as well as Southwestern spices that pay tribute to her Arizona upbringing. Her culinary skillset, honed at Arizona Culinary Institute, manifests through specialty dishes such as their recently-featured Colombian “Ajiaco” chicken soup. “We make food that we’re passionate about,” says Jackson. “I like to think the best things happen when you’re doing what you love in the kitchen.” As the menu evolves, they have started to build partnerships with independent Vermont foodmakers and farmers, such as Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Maplebrook Farm in Shaftsbury, and Grateful Greens in Brattleboro, among others. “We source locally whenever possible,” says Brogan. “We want to support Vermont farmers and use the best, freshest ingredients.”
Building on Brogan’s extensive expertise in vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free cooking, she and Jackson go above and beyond to ensure that guests are able to savor their extraordinary dishes regardless of their dietary restrictions. They have crafted a diverse menu that tantalizes taste buds and delights both gustatory and visual senses. From crispy roasted duck with a hoisin and ginger glaze to bacon-wrapped chicken breast with gruyere béchamel, each dish is a masterpiece of flavorful imagination. The plating and color coordination of the dishes is truly stunning to behold, and the passion that both chefs bring to their work is equally vibrant. Dining at The Four Chimneys is a multisensory experience, in which the décor and aesthetics wonderfully complement the sublime beauty and taste of the gourmet offerings. The original herringbone brick flooring and wood flooring in the main dining rooms and the tasteful moldings, sconces, and décor pieces throughout the inn exude worldly sophistication, hearkening back to the era where well-known celebrities would journey to The Four Chimneys for legendary dinners. “We still see some celebrities here today,” shares Baetens. “You never know who’s going to come for dinner.”
At the on-site bar, guests can indulge in Vermont craft beer, including several selections made by Madison Brewing in Bennington, or sip and savor craft cocktails made with Vermont spirits from Bennington’s Village Garage Distillery. As a knowledgeable oenophile, Baetens takes great pride in the bottle and glass wine offerings at The Four Chimneys. Highlights include full-bodied French wines, such as St. Emilion Bordeaux and Pouilly-Fuissé, as well as California Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. As Baetens and Goble continue to build The Four Chimneys culinary program, they are grateful for the welcoming reception from the local community. “The feedback has been wonderful,” says Baetens. “We’re considering expanding our offerings to include a bar menu later on in the year, and we’re excited to see what comes next.”